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More Chinese garbage? 1st-Racing Billet 16T 07031 & 07041 N54B30 TD04L

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Being sold at $769 so obviously cheap but is anyone going to buy this and try it out? Considering people buy stuff from known scammers I guess I wouldn't be surprised:

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These are Brand New N54 Turbochargers with an Upgraded Forged Billet Compressor Wheel Comparable in flow to a 16T Turbo
Turbo Response is Absolutely Amazing.

New Castings (NO CORES NEEDED)
Brand New Wastegate Actuators
High Flow Forged Billet Compressor Wheels
Component Balanced, Dynamic Balanced Than VSR Balanced
This is TD04L 16T Turbine Wheel Available ( 6+6 , 43.4*58.5)
Maybe some Modifications needed to install
Billet Wastegate Flapper Valves (Stainless Steel with Thicker Rod)

New to the BMW world, fuel it stage 3 help

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Hey guys I appreciate the add! I just wanted to introduce myself, I live just west of st louis MO. Huge fan of DSM's, Subaru's, a couple built motors. I've been in the saab game for about 7 years and never truely knew power til now. I wanted to try what everyone has been talking about. The N54 platform... I purchased Drepai's 09 335i ST car. Car is amazing. I've fallen in love again.
List goes as follows, VM/ACF 6466, PI with controller, fuel it stage 3 kit, spec 3 + Mfactory flywheel,
Vrsf IC, phenoix charge pipe,Jb4 and mhd BEF low boost e85 map 2.
Especially being single turbo and a california car(no rust)! The car has a history to it, no car accidents but a blown motor... The old owner had a 40k n54 swapped professionally in the car. Everything has been checked out and confirmed. Car is insane. I'm surprised I found this rare gem and the condition its in for being a 9 year old car!

Fast forward to today Ive had the car for 2 weeks now, the car has a couple I wouldnt say issues but things I'd deff like to fix.
It has the stage 3 fuel it kit. With a hobbs switch. Previous owner states the secondary fuel pump is not kicking on with 15psi hits.
Where do I start to look for issues?
Ive attached a picture of the wiring to the battery and I think the 12+ switch (white wire) is likely the culprit but maybe something else? I dont think the power wire (red) and 12+ switch (white) should be together?
All the other wiring looks correct. Where do you guys install your 12+ switched wire?

Attached is the pic of the relay latout.

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Should I do a few pulls and log it? What parameters do I need to log to see if the second fuel pump it kicking on?
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Fuel-It! has new FI-650HP LPFP and FI-650HP N54/N55 Port Injection Kits

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We'll be using this thread as our support thread for the new FI-650HP kits and posting install guides, pictures, updates, answering questions, etc.

Initially I'll leave the introduction in the first post but then move it down to the second post once everyone gets more familiar with the new offerings. Feel free to post questions in this thread as it will serve as our customer support thread and we'll discuss the products but do not request support for other products or those posts will be deleted.

Now on to the good stuff...

Over the last few years we've been adapting our products to changes that take place in the market, our own experiences, and the trends we see with regards to performance, tuning, reliability, innovations, customer needs, etc.

A lot has changed in those last few years! For example, remember the days when 400whp was a big deal? 600whp is now common place and the N54, the N55 platform is getting there and both are more affordable than ever as they continue to age and rack up the miles.

Based on those trends, observations, and customer inquiries, we have developed a new product line to support the increased power levels and address some of the weaknesses that have surfaced as time went on.

Our first offering in the new line of products is FI-650HP series. As you may have already guessed, FI-650HP stands for Fuel-It! 650 HorsePower. That is the power level these kits are designed to support and to do so they make the most out of the stock components, minimize customization, and in general keep things as stock as possible since stock is typically the most reliable.

In this FI-650HP line we currently offer two products with minimal options to reduce confusion, keep prices down, and still supply you the modifications you need to achieve your goals. All of them are E85, race gas, and pump gas compatible.

First is the FI-650HP and FI-650HP-F LPFP upgrades for the N54 and N55 cars.

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For those that are interested, here is a little history on the development of those kits.
This concept is not new to us and we started implementing it on the S55 platform a couple years ago. In that application we retain the stock LPFP and add additional capacity to the fuel system by adding a second pump assembly that is secured by the stock bucket assembly with no modifications made to the stock pump, venturi, or wiring harness. We chose to go that route for a couple reasons but first and foremost was reliability. By not interfering with the stock harness or upgrading the stock pump we didn't have to address EKP issues or worry about the long term affects on the stock systems. Second, it was easily reversible but provided us with the additional capacity we needed for the cars that ultimately ended up making 700whp (now common), then 800whp, and ultimately IIRC 900whp (with nos).

For the F-series N55 platform as those started to age we started seeing issues with the EKP's failing prematurely, likely due to the extra current draw of the upgraded pumps, EKP's overheating due to reduced capacity and overheating. To address this we used the same technique we did for the S55, we utilized the stock pump for everyday use and added the secondary pump to support the additional fueling needs under boost. This was a win/win and has served us well. No more EKP issues, no error messages, and we utilized the flows the stock pump had to offer instead of just 86ing the pump.

Another benefit to this was that the DME on both the N54 and especially the N55 are sensitive to the additional demands the upgraded pumps place on the EKP and will alert the driver via an i-drive message that continued driving was possible but to consult your dealer. In most cases this is just a warning and can be ignored or alternatively the EKP can be re-coded to raise the current limit to eliminate those errors. However, this new design eliminated the issue and we no longer have to tolerate the message, exclamation point or have to code the EKP.

Naturally the progression once we started seeing more EKP's fail was to begin implementing this on other platforms and the FI-650HP concept was conceived. For the N54 platform we will also be releasing the FI-1000HP but that is a few weeks out as are other options for this modular kit.

Another benefit of this kit on the N54 platform, other than actually putting the additional pump assembly in the tank and installing the plug and play wiring harness, there is no DIY aspect to it. The stock bucket remains untouched, no tearing it down, no sending it in for upgrade, no core deposits, etc. :happy In addition, pricing is very similar to that of the Stage 2 pumps (they start at $399.95) but for that instead of getting 1.1-1.2GPM of flow, you get approximately 1.8GPM of flow to support 650whp provided your stock pump is in good condition. If you are currently running our Stage 2 LPFP and want to upgrade to stage 3, you can still add this upgrade option for approximately 2.2 gallons of flow per minute.

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Second in the line up are the FI-650HP Port Injection Kits for the N54 and N55 cars.

These kits are configured to support up to 650whp and come with the necessary haredware to do so. To simplify the ordering process and confusion, we have limited the additional options to adding a Bluetooth Ethanol Sensor, your choice of port injection controllers, and optional return kit.

All port injection kits include:

*Fuel-It! silver anodized custom spacer for the intake manifold with angled injectors to eliminate the cylinder 1 offset and improve atomization and distribution
*Fuel-It! silver anodized custom fuel rail with integrated brackets
*Machined o-ring grooves to original factory intake manifold specs
*6 flow matched Bosch 550cc injectors
*6an fuel supply port
*6an fuel return port plug
*1/8" NPT boost reference port (cyl 6)
*Six OEM manifold gaskets
*Seven extended length zinc coated bolts
*Seven zinc coated washers
*Two nylon rail and manifold alignment pins

The silver anodizing on these kits makes them compatible with all fuels and includes the complete upgraded fuel lines that will replace all the stock lines with 3/8" E85 compatible lines. In addition the kits include all of our latest anodized custom billet fittings including our exclusive Cam-Lock style fittings for the HPFP connection and ethanol sensor should you decide to include it. These new designs not only eliminates any plastic clips in those fittings but also makes it much easier to verify that the fitting is installed properly and locked in place. Our anodized custom Y fittings also eliminate all the threaded fittings and possible leak points associated with off the shelf fittings that can require up to four fittings to do what we do with one.

Link to the E-series kits can be found by clicking here and the Link to the F-series kits can be found here

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Pumps and port injection kits can be purchased separately so that you can upgrade as need, time, and funds allow.

Replaced my oil pan gasket, now its leaking from the rear main seal...

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When replacing my blown turbo's i noticed the oil pan gasket was just starting to leak. So after replacing the gasket i get the car on the ground and noticed it was leaking by the rear main seal pretty bad. I tightened all of the bolts a little more (about 8-9 ftlbs) and it almost stopped completely but when i shut the car off and let it sit, i notice a puddle beneath the rear main seal along with oil residue around that area. I can pin point it to towards the driver side up a few bolts dripping down to the bottom of the bell housing. What can be causing this and how do i fix it?

Doc Race Xi (awd) N54 single turbo manifold

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I'm not too sure one what design changes need to be made for the xi's but I do know it's beautiful work:

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2007 335i backend flash write taking forever

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Hi, I am trying to flash my 02/07 335i. Bimmer Boost 1.3.3.1 was able to read and back up my ECU, successfully reads voltage, have a 25 amp charger hooked up with v at 13.2, starts the write, but after erasing memory step 1 stalls. Calculating time displays and progress bar creeps very slow. Once I got it to display remaining time of 1300 minutes or so. Tried Force write, battery disconnect, no help. ECU displays in recovery mode. Also, lugged my home computer to garage and had same results. Any help would be appreciated!

335i Doc Race ST build, sanity check my parts list please

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After a little searching I found a stock manual '09 335i with 56k miles, I'm picking it up later this week up in the DC area.

To start, for the next year or two this will be serving as my DD. It's not ideal, but if anything catastrophic occurs (knock on wood) I'll rent a car for the time being and sort it out. That being said, a requirement will be 93 octane pump gas only. No meth or port injection until this becomes a secondary car (and gets a 335is brother). I initially was looking at pure stage 2's, but after a lot of reading decided to go the single turbo route for the added reliability.

It seems a lot of the single turbo guys are out of business, from my research it was between Motiv and DocRace. I decided on DocRace mainly because of the price, BUT, only because with that price came massive amounts of positive feedback and comments on the great quality of the kit. Talking with John reinforced all of this. 200+ kits out and no reports of cracking manifolds etc. I pulled the trigger on his top mount kit with a precision 6062. He recommended it since I mentioned quick spool was a priority and my power goals (500-550rwhp) fell well within its power range.

So, along with that I bought the following from Mike at N54 Tuning:

Finishing the routing to the intake:

-ER competition FMIC
-ER charge pipe with TIAL BOV

Fuel:

-Fuel-it Stage 2 LPFP

Ignition:

-Precision Racewerks PnP ignition system

Drivetrain:

-Mfactory steel flywheel
-SPEC stage 3+ clutch (going to change this to 2+)
-Mfactory LSD complete pumpkin

Electrical/tuning:

-VRSF catless fix (need to pass obd emissions)
-JB4 piggyback for safeties and boost control
-MHD BEF

In addition to all of that I bought:

-RB low side OCC kit
-BMS high side OCC kit
-BMS shorty filter
-BMS MAC solenoid and MAP sensor
-Motiv's ADV O2 sensors

I think I am going to replace the HPFP and injectors since I'm tearing everything apart anyways. Kind of just makes sense to me. The OP sent over receipts of recent repairs and the blower was replaced due to recall and the cooling pump and thermostat was replaced as well so that should be good for another 50k.

Main question now: am I missing anything and should I address cooling at all. Research didn't turn up much. CSF radiator and maybe a fan replacement? Should I think about ER's oil coolers?

I appreciate any help or input you guys can offer. Thanks! - Brian

Need some direction / feedback

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Hoping you can point me in the right direction

my goal
10sec on paper you could say.
Maybe 2 track days a year. 1/4 mile
And some
Roll racing

I like the idea of the 335is dct
But maybe a auto might be a better idea.

Parts
FBO ( what fbo parts do you recommend )
Catless dp / factory exhaust
Stage 2/3 lpfp bucket or bucket less
PI do you prefer one.
stock turbos ( 450 - 480 whp is this a happy place for stock turbos ? ) or max safe tune
94 octane. Or can there be a pump/meth tune
Then
Corn mix ? / 94
Might spray a 50 to 75 shot to push it into the 10s ( have the nos hit mid track )

Can the dct live with this combo ( love the idea of a dct )
Can the dct be programmed
Or
would an auto be better
Are autos having good luck with the new flash


Thanks for your time

Some new Doc Race billet N54 pieces

PSP (Pinnacle Specialty Performance) N54 intercoolers

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Never heard of these guys and just ran across them randomly.

Sharing another intercooler option apparently they have three the PSP 900, PSP 750, and PSP 600.

900:

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750:

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600:

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870 whp automatic built N54 motor with 35 psi from 6870 Gen2 BB .96 AR

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Correction factor naturally not listed and details on the trans are missing. What's done to it?

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Before getting too excited this is with no load on a Dynojet. What happens when it launches on a strip or does it just disintegrate?

JB4 boost safety logic change proposal

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From @Terry@BMS:

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMS
Hi guys,
We come across this issue often where customers don't understand how the global boost safety setting works and trigger annoyance failsafes when in fact nothing is actually wrong.

The current boost safety logic:

1) User enters the boost safety on user adjustment page. Default is normally 18psi.
2) The JB4 is programmed to target no more than 1/2 below this safety boost level regardless of map definition.
3) If boost exceeds the safety setting for more than 1 second the JB4 reverts to a safety map.
4) The boost failsafe also doubles as the in dash boost gauge "max" reading.

Proposed boost safety logic:

1) The "boost safety" field is reassigned to some other task. The max boost gauge reading is set based on the boost sensor. 20psi for 2.5bar, 36psi for 3.5bar.
2) The JB4 is programmed to trigger a boost safety switch IF boost exceeds the map target +2psi for more than a second on twin turbo firmware, or +3psi for more than a second on single turbo firmware.

Possible issues will crop up when running out of the boost sensor range. So in these situations the boost safety will consider the sensor being used. e.g. a 2.5 bar can't have a safety higher than 20psi, and a 3.5 bar can't have a safety higher than 36psi.

Thoughts?

2fa4 "incorrect data record intermittent" no power

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Hello all,

I recently got my cas programmed with key to a second hand msd80 dme due to not starting.
Car fires up and idles well however I have no boost and the error code 2fa4 appears.

I have read that this can be due to a mismatch in power class for the cas and dme and also that it may need the working hours reset.

I dont really know what this means, is there anyone that can help or any places near heathrow I can take my car for them to sort the code out?

Any help appreciated Dudes!

oil pump install

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Hey guys, just putting my oil pump back in and want to confirm something. I got this bolt kit from bmw.
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I used the longest one on the oil pump and 2 mid length ones for the remaining 2 holes on the pump. The windage tray took 6 of the shortest and 3 of the mid length ones to mount the pickup tube. I'm left with a few mid length ones and the black steel bolt. Just want to verify where they go (especially the black one) A friend mentioned automatics and awd use more bolts and they include them in the kits.
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4N Performance N54 bottom mount @ 30 psi on 100% E85 = 709 whp, 621 wtq

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This is tuned by @PureEvilN54.

Stock N54, stock auto transmission.

Curve isn't bad looking:

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30 psi of boost on E85.

Not sure which turbo but he says there is more in it but since the motor and trans are stock...

HPFP options

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Anyone watching this?



God it's such a messy procedure. Can't wait for the day when you can pull the old pump out and put a new uprated one in it's place! Yes probably requiring an uprated fuel rail as well unless it can just maintain the same pressures but with more flow.

N54 60-130 record of 5.5 seconds?

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Kind of hard to tell in this vid. Maybe BMS can can ge the graph so we can see the slope and so forth:

10.9@131 MMP Stage 3 335 auto

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No port injection, only 25 psi he says.

Regardless, a 10-second pass:

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Mods:

MMP Stage 3 with about 15k+ miles on them, 25psi, Ken Atkinson tune JB4 BEF, MMP inlets/outlets, Precision Raceworks coils, VR Speed Factory downpipes, Burger Motorsports Meth kit with a single CM10 nozzle spraying 100% meth, Ebay 2.5" cat back exhaust with open cutouts, MT ET Street R 275/40/17

RB Stage 2 N54 E82 135 11.0@125 1/4 mile

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Considering the mod list is bolt ons with an LPFP and RB Stage 2's on an E45 blend this is very impressive:

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Right on that 10-second doorstep with 'only' 125 miles per hour.

Automatic of course.

Tapering boost on hybrids

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Hi guys,
just want to ask some advice. Is there a need or is it advised to taper boost on N54s, even when they have after market twin turbos?

I get that on the stock turbos, they are running out of steam after 5500 rpm and that on some cars a fueling limitation might mean lower boost at high rpms is a must. So if the car has no fueling problem and stage2+ or better twin turbos, is there any need to taper the boost? I guess tapering boost might also make a misfire less likely. So slightly less boost would result in more power than higher boost with a timing pull or worse, a misfire.

So what are people's views and opinions?
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